 Industry pundits predict that coral will be a hot commodity in 2005 accessory designs. The wide availability of coral belies the complicated conditions surrounding trade in this natural product. Unfortunately, information on coral trade is not widely distributed. If you choose to use coral, it is a good idea to educate yourself on the material and to make informed decisions in your purchasing sources. In an effort to help customers, we have composed this brief industry guide to coral in jewelry design. Coral used in jewelry The most popular coral used in jewelry design is the species Corallium rubrum. This vibrant red coral has historically been in high demand as a jewelry component. Other Corallium varieties range in color from reds to oranges and pinks. Coralliums live in the Mediterranean and near the Northern and Western coasts of Africa. Coral jewelry gained popularity in North America thanks to Native American designs dating back many centuries. Traditional red coral contrasts beautifully with indigenous turquoise and was highly coveted in early trade in the Americas. However, coral trade dates back over two thousand years to trade in North Africa and Asia. European artisans also developed many carved designs including cameos during medieval times. Contemporary designers now use coral in countless designs and colors. What is coral? Many people believe that coral is a plant or mineral formation. In fact, coral is an animal. The segments of coral used to make beads and jewelry are the skeletal remains of these fragile creatures. There are literally thousands of species of corals around the world. As a group, corals are gaining more widespread attention because of their precarious status. Many are endangered and the reefs where corals live are becoming more and more protected. Reefs are composed of thousands of coral polyps that grow in colonies to create the massive reef structures that exist near 100 countries worldwide. Scientists estimate that between half and two-thirds of the worlds coral reefs are in danger of dying. This threat is all the more devastating since over twenty-five percent of all marine species depend on coral reefs to survive. Coral growth rates vary between .2 inches to 8 inches of growth annually. Coralliums are on the slow end of the growth spectrum. This slow growth seems even more dramatic when you consider the time it takes to build a reef ecosystem from natural coral growth. The oldest living reefs are 50 million years old. Most are between 5,000 and 10,000 years old. Coral Harvesting Corallium rubrum is fortunately not endangered. However, most nations’ fisheries agencies are regulating coral harvesting to prevent over-fishing and population depletion. Mediterranean harvests have been reduced by 66 percent over the last 15 years to protect the remaining corals. Legal harvesting in Italy and other EU nations is closely regulated. Moreover, the corals from Torre del Greco, near Naples, are considered to be some of the highest quality and most beautiful specimens on the market. Naturally, they are also the most expensive. The same species can also be found in Northern and Western African coastal nations. Fishery regulations in these countries are insufficient; furthermore, illegal harvesting is rampant. Further threats to reef survival come from collateral damage to reefs during the pursuit of other commercial fishing in these regions. Corals can be damaged by bottom trawling, dynamite blasting and other fishing methods. Responsible Coral Consumption If you choose to use natural corals in your designs, we highly recommend verifying the source of the corals to the best of your ability. The price will be higher for European corals harvested in regulated areas. However, should the rate of destruction of this species continued, it may be added to the CITES endangered species list. Once an animal is added to the endangered species list, all trade of products derived from it, even before the animal was endangered, are illegal to buy or sell in any form. If you are buying a non-Corallium species, take the time to verify that it is not protected in the United States by The Federal Endangered Species Act or endangered internationally by visiting www.cites.org. We do not intend to steer designers away from coral entirely. It is indeed a beautiful product. However, we hope to limit the damaging effects of fringe trade in corals that is damaging our natural resources. Consumers are very powerful in pointing dealers towards regulated sources. Use your buying power to make a difference! Sources The Sea’s Vanishing Gift, August 2003. Professionaljeweler.com. Bond Communications. About Coral Reefs. Coralreef.org. International Coral Reef Information Network. Identification of red and pink corals Corallium species. Arkive database. CITES.org De Nunzio, R. Gemstone Jewelry - The Story of Coral: Underwater Treasure. Contributed by Mondera to Jewelry-paideia.com. |
