We’ll cover 6 key design elements to include in your jewelry to get that western style. From stone type to bezels to stamps, and more, these are the elements you need to create a collection of western jewelry.
Are you curious about creating jewelry with a southwestern flair? Well we’ve got you covered! In this blog we discuss 6 key elements to include in a western jewelry collection that embody the southwestern style. Many elements and designs draw inspiration from the native cultures and tribes that have called the southwest home for hundreds of years. The Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi tribes, among many others, have strong backgrounds in jewelry. Contemporary jewelers are also inspired by the iconic symbols of the region such as turquoise and cowboy culture.
1. Western Jewelry Stamping
Stamped elements are a key component to western jewelry. Whether there are stamps across the entire piece, accent a bezel, or border a cuff or ring band, you’ll find stamped impressions used in western rings and western bracelets. You’ll see variations on common motifs like geometrics, zigzag mountains, or sunbursts.
Check out western stamps from Arizona toolmaker Hector Ortega at Silver Lining Metal Stamps. Our cuff bracelet blanks are the perfect thickness for stamping and allow you to add any soldered elements you wish. We also offer cuff blanks in gold-filled, copper, or brass to hit every price point and style.
2. Bezel Set Stone Clusters in Western Jewelry
Multiple stones on one piece are super common in western style jewelry! We love that – the more the merrier! You’ll often find a center stone surrounded by smaller stones of the same or contrasting color. Stone clusters help create the often bold, large, statement pieces you’ll see in the southwest. You can use bezel cups for small calibrated cabochons to save time or bezel wire for odd shapes and sizes.
It’s important to remember when using multiple stones in close proximity to have separation between them. If the bezels are pushed up next to each other, there will be no room to get your setting tools in there to push the metal over the stone. Check out the next two signature western design elements for ways to separate your stones with style!
3. Double Bezels in Western Jewelry
What’s a double bezel, you ask? It’s when a bezel is surrounded by a fancy shaped wire. In southwestern style jewelry you’ll often find double bezels with bead wire, twist wire, or hammered wire. But you don’t have to limit yourself to that! Double bezels add a decorative element that can enhance your stones, but is also often practical – it helps create space between side by side stones!
4. Silver Balls and Embellishments in Western Jewelry
Silver balls and 3-dimensional embellishments, like solder ornaments, are another classic design element of southwestern jewelry. They add decoration and visual interest, but are also a great way to create separation between your stone clusters. You can ball up scrap silver or wire with your torch to create granule balls as described below. Shot plates, or steel plates with designs carved into them, are a great way to create shaped 3d elements to solder onto your pieces. Many of the designs are similar to those you’d find in the stamps. Simply hammer some balled up metal into the die, and viola! You’ve created your own three-dimensional solder ornament! Concho dies, hydraulic press dies, and bump outs are also used to create 3d embellishments in the western style.
Not sure how to create your own silver balls? It’s easy! And a great way to use up scrap! Follow the steps below to create your own decorative silver balls:
- Gather metal – scrap works great for this. If you want consistently sized balls, use circle blanks of the same size or cut wire to the same length
- Place on a heat-safe surface, like your soldering board
- Focus the heat of your torch directly onto the metal until it balls up. Pull away slowly.
Below are some tips for this process:
- Using a flat surface to ball up your metal will create a flat spot on the back – perfect for soldering onto a back sheet
- If you don’t want the back of the balls flat, carve a divot into a charcoal block with a ball bur and melt your metal in there.
- Pulling away slowly helps create a smoother surface with sterling silver. You do not have this issue with fine silver.
- Be careful! If you’re using a flat surface to ball up your material, sometimes while melting the balls like to move.
Check out the video below to see it in action!
5. Stone Choices for Western Jewelry
There are a few types of stones that show up time and time again in western jewelry. This doesn’t mean you’re limited to these stones only, but they really communicate the landscape of the southwest, because, well, they’re found here!
Turquoise – Turquoise is the most popular stone found in southwestern style jewelry. It’s found in mines across Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, and Mexico. You’ll find turquoise from other locations around the world too, but some of the best known types, like Kingman turquoise, originate in the southwest.
Spiny Oyster – Spiny oyster isn’t actually a stone, but comes from a mollusk shell! They’re most commonly found along the coast of California and Mexica and come in a range of colors. You’ll find them in orange, red, and purple shades. The most common and easily harvested are orange spiny oyster. The color contrast between blue turquoise and orange spiny oyster creates a pop of color common in western style jewelry.
White Buffalo – White buffalo is characterized by its white color with black veins. Originally thought to be a type of turquoise, it’s actually dolomite and only found in the Tonopah, Nevada region. It’s name is derived from the Native American sacred white buffalo legend. Named so because the white buffalo was rare, just like the stone is today.
Other common stones include lapis, coral, onyx, and jasper. You’ll also most commonly find southwestern style jewelry to be made out of silver and copper. Turquoise comes from areas where copper is found, so they make a perfect pairing!
6. Western Charms
Don't forget the charms! Large pendants or dainty charms add fun to your jewelry collection. Western essentials to include are cowboy boots, cactus, horseshoes, and feather charms. Shop our entire collection of western charms and jewelry supplies for options.
The six elements above are signatures in southwestern or western style jewelry collections. But they’re not the only things you’ll see. You can incorporate classic cowboy and western imagery, like horseshoes, cowboy boots, cactus, and more. Oxidizing your pieces and pulling back the high spots can really help bring out all of the intricate design elements you’ve added. Beaded elements are also very common in southwestern jewelry. Create an entirely beaded piece, or add beaded accents. Fade beads that are oxidized but silver around the middle and heishe style beads are frequently used in western designs. SHOP WESTERN JEWELRY MAKING SUPPLIES >>>
Lastly, have fun with it! Southwestern style jewelry is incredibly popular. Don’t be afraid to experiment and add your signature style or design voice. This will help set your pieces apart and stand out. This blog is for jewelry artists making collections. If you are a retailer looking to source wholesale western jewelry, check out our style guide for gift shops.
